BEIJING, July 2 (Xinhua) - Now that the vast majority of Chinese civilians
have adopted western-style clothes and trendy urbanites on the hunt for cool
items in tune with world fashion trends, the 2.3 million people serving in the
country's military are also doing a style catch-up.
Brand new ceremonial and casual uniforms -- and new battle fatigues -- were
unveiled in Hong Kong on July 1, the 10th anniversary of Hong Kong's return to
China, unleashing a loud hurrah from the mainland's enlisted men.
Different from the "97 Style" uniforms issued to garrison troops in Hong
Kong and Macao, this upgrade will allow the mainland's enlisted to cast off the
baggy uniforms developed some 20 years ago and look even sharper than the
garrison troops in Hong Kong and Macao.
Dubbed "07 Style", the new ceremonial uniforms for the first time adopt
chest insignia, a mainstay of most western military uniforms, to reveal wearers'
ranks and length of service.
Berets have been introduced as standard-issue summer headgear, reminiscent
of the NATO look, while Navy rank badges move down from the shoulders to the
sleeves in line with international practice.
Years of peace-keeping operations with other international forces have
influenced Chinese designers.
"Increasing global military exchanges have upped the requirements for PLA
uniforms. The new outfits fuse global trends with Chinese characteristics," said
general Liao Xilong, chief of the PLA General Logistics Department, in an
interview with Xinhua.
The current outfits are not very stylish, Liao said, there are often color
mismatches and insufficient varieties to meet the different dress needs of the
forces. Apart from battle fatigues, military personnel need basic casual
uniforms and ceremonial dress uniforms.
Rising living standards, the modernization of the country's armed forces
and its growing presence in international peacekeeping operations are also
factors behind the decision to upgrade uniforms.
Stylish uniforms
Working from the "97 Style", designers refined the cut and the sizing of
the uniforms to enhance the appearance of the wearers. The new casual uniform
for spring and autumn fit more tightly because they have been taken in the
chest, waist and bust. Female servicemen will find their shoe heels have grown
by a centimeter from the previous four centimeters.
Designers focused mainly on improving the aesthetics, quality and
functionality of military outfits, said senior engineer Yang Tingxin, president
of the Quartermaster Equipment Institute (QEI) responsible for the uniform
designs. "It would be impossible to carry out such a major upgrade if the
country's economic strength hadn't grown rapidly," he said.
Technological and financial constraints meant that up until 1987 Chinese
forces were only issued one uniform for working, field surveys and training when
casual uniforms were first introduced.
"Letter H uniforms have been ditched once and for all, they're a thing of
the past," said Wu Yu, a QEI senior engineer. "Now we have letter T uniforms for
men and letter X for women".
When compared with military uniforms from other countries, H-shaped
uniforms appear baggy and dull. Men in T-shaped uniforms that highlight shoulder
breadth look taller and stronger; women in X-shaped uniforms featuring
contracted waists are much sassier, she explained.
Ceremonial dress uniforms previously reserved for military attaches when
they were first deployed in 1987 are now available to all military officers.
Tailor-made, they come complete with special shoes and shirts.
After three years of study, designers made more than a hundred refinements
to the "97 Style" and introduced 365 new items including sweaters, training
boots, gloves, socks, training overcoats and apparel such as arm badges, name
patches and service insignia.
"My impression is that the top leaders of the military really want to make
the rank-and-filers look smart and feel comfortable. They are very open-minded,"
said Yang Tingxin, who was involved in the design of "87 Style".
The red band that has been a feature of the big-brimmed green Army hats for
decades has disappeared from the new outfits. Some critics opposed the change,
saying that the color red is the main symbol of the Communist Party of China.
But aesthetics prevailed. The blaze of red didn't match the green hat and green
uniforms.
Instead designers have come up with an enlarged peach-shaped badge on the
hats for all enlisted bearing the insignia of the PLA Army, Air Force and Navy.
A red relief features a star and the Chinese characters "ba-yi", or eight-one,
commemorating the beginning of the Nanchang Uprising on Aug. 1, 1927, to which
the history of the PLA was officially traced.
Tradition persists
Despite the changes, the uniforms retain "key PLA elements and icons"---
under the command of the Communist Party of China, serving the people and
performing bravely and skillfully in battles, Liao said.
A dozen traditional icons appear on the new uniforms including the national
flag, the PLA flag, the Great Wall, Tian'anmen Square, as well as ears of wheat
and cog wheels representing the alliance of farmers and workers which 80 years
ago led to the foundation of the New China.
To commemorate the history of the PLA, historic gray -- the color worn by
the Red Army (1927 to 1937) and the Balujun or Eighth Route Army (1937-1949)
from which the PLA evolved -- was fused with the current colors, providing a new
pine green for the Army, dark blue for the Navy and deep grey-blue for the Air
Force.
"The three colors mesh well and accord with the global trend of using cold
colors for military uniforms," said Yang Tingxin, adding that there won't be
much change in the colors and categories of Chinese military uniforms in the
future.
"Our focus will shift to improving functionality, quality and
recognizability and enriching standard-issues for each category", he said.
"Training and tactical uniforms need more work."
The upgrade will cost China six billion yuan by 2009. But, despite this,
the per capita bedding and clothing expenses of the Chinese armed forces remains
low compared with the world average, Liao Xilong noted.
"The expenditure cannot be avoided. But we must budget strictly. By
spreading the upgrade over three years, we can make full use of existing
inventory and avoid waste," he said.
Logistical breakthrough
Carefully folded uniforms usually arrive at the barracks from military
warehouses. This year, many ceremonial uniforms have come direct from factory
production lines. Delivered on clothes hangers, they are without a single
wrinkle and have the name label of the wearer stitched on.
"This military dress upgrade is a stride forward in the PLA's logistics
management," said Wang Zongxi, Professor at the PLA Logistics Command Institute.
Liao Xilong admitted that the PLA had long wanted to provide servicemen and
women with tailor-made ceremonial uniforms. "The upgrade has taken us a long way
towards achieving this goal," he said.
Manufacturers that won contracts to produce the new ceremonial uniforms
have been required to take the measurements of the country's 2.3 million
military. This massive undertaking has made it possible to deliver tailor-made
uniforms to every eligible wearer direct from factories to barracks.
Liao said that the Army would no longer keep inventory and no longer be
involved in inventory management for ceremonial uniforms. "The idea is to
outsource inventory management of these uniforms to private firms and slash our
storage costs."
Technological innovation, industrial advances and military reforms are
blurring the divide between defense and civil industries. Many countries use
resources from the private sector to reduce the size of their military forces
and improve their combat effectiveness. This is a key focus for the PLA in
modernizing its logistics, Liao said.
In February, the Chinese military authorities urged military areas and
units to collaborate more with civil enterprises in order to improve logistics
management.
The government said in late June that it was encouraging weapons makers in
less sensitive sectors to attract private and overseas investors and increase
innovation.
"A uniform upgrade is not just about looking 'snappy'. It is part of a
whole system of logistics. The new design concept, new materials and new
technologies improve uniform quality but they are also hooked in to optimized
management of bedding and clothing," Liao said.
Thanks to the largest-ever uniform upgrade in China's history,
quartermasters have been able to update measurement statistics and data on
bedding and clothing, and they predict that they will be able to significantly
reduce costs related to uniform and equipment issue errors. "Uniforms are an
excellent point of departure for experimenting with the outsourcing of military
logistics," he said.